How To Take Care of Your Hunting Dog

As an avid hunter, your hunting dog is considered as a trusted part of your family. You have to give him some extra training and care. It’s important to care for him well. Just when your dog is healthy, you can get a successful hunting season. At the same time, many more successful things come. Let’s take a look at this article to learn how to take care of your hunting dog.

How To Take Care of Your Hunting Dog

Take care of your dog at home

Make regular vet appointments

It’s important to check your dog at least once per year. If you have a hunting dog, it’s best to give him semi-annual checkups. Hunting dogs often have to expose many elements. And, they also easily get injury out in the field. There are many health issues your dog may have to face as the thyroid problem, diabetes, and kidney ailments. That’s why you need to keep an eye on your dog’s health.

Give your dog a proper diet

You need to give your hunting dog a nutritious diet with a lot of energy. So, it’s important to provide him the food high in calories. They can help him stay warm and active out in the field. You should choose foods high in fat level. It’s best to feed your dog a 20% fat content.Your dog won’t get sufficient energy from starches and grains. But, you have to give your dog a diet rich in animal-based protein. Also, your dog needs sufficient water.

Exercise your dog

Regular exercise is helpful for your dog, especially for your hunting dog. It’s best to prepare him for the rigors of hunting in the wilderness, not only your usual day-to-day walking exercises. If your dog is overweight, it’s important to get an accelerated training program that can help to get him into hunting shape.

Groom your dog

This is one of the important parts when it comes to maintaining any dog’s health and wellness. This depends on the coat, the breed, and the conditions you plan to hunt. Your dog needs a professional groomer who can trim his coat a little shorter. By this way, your dog can make his coat dry faster after he swims. Also, it can help to reduce the chances of a bacterial infection. It’s best to brush his coat at least once a week. In addition, it’s also important to keep his nails trimmed. This has the purpose of preventing injured toes.

Refresh Your Dog’s Training

Apply the place command

This helps you keep your dog stationary when hunting for game. Your dog has to learn how to stay on any kind of terrain, not just on a flat.

Train your dog with a launcher

Thanks to remote launchers, you can train your dog to do many things as chase, guard a downed animal, as well as track down. You can consider using a dummy bird to make your dog chase downed birds in the wild. And, you can train your dog for all kinds of scenarios as well. It’s easy to purchase remote-controlled launchers as well as manually-operated wingers at many hunting supply stores.

Use scent training

You can make your dog chase a scent by using a scent-infused training dummy.You can tie this device to a six-foot cordat the end or along the way.

Use a roll cage

You can use a roll cage in order to train gun dogs. The thing you need to do just is placing a live raccoon inside. This tool helps your dog build his confidence. Then, he can be able to be accustomed to tracking and cornering prey.

Take your dog hunting

Protect your dog from extreme temperatures

When you go hunting, your furry friend can be exposed to extreme heat or cold. Your pet is suitable for outdoor activities. So, it’s important to protect him from any weather extreme. If it rains, you need to provide your dog a shelter. Make sure you bring a warm blanket after a long day in cold weather.And, if he’s too hot, it’s time to apply an ice pack on his body in order to cool him down fast.

Protect your dog from snakes

When you go hunting, your dog is easy to be at risk of snakebite in the field. So, remember to bring a rattlesnake vaccine when going hunting. You can purchase a hunter-friendly vaccine kit from the Red Rock Biologics. It’s made to save your dog’s life once he’s bitten. It costs about $30 to $40 per dose. It’s best to avoid prairie dog colonies, rocky south-facing slopes, as well as old abandoned buildings in the fields.

Treat Common Injuries

Prepare a first aid kit

You need to carry some basic first aid equipment in order to treat or prevent injuries in the fields. A good kit needs to have a sterile saline rinse, hydrogen peroxide, a rectal thermometer, a gauze wrap, non-stick gauze pads, tweezers and a magnifying glass, a splint, cortisone cream, aspirin, antihistamines like Benadryl, sufficient food and water bowls, an instant cold pack, and snakebite anti-venom.

Check for ticks

It’s essential to check your pet for ticks after the injuries. Ticks can be able to the cause of transmitting Lyme disease and other infections to your pet. It’s not easy to find ticks on a dog’s body.

Soothe arthritis pain

Your dog may have to suffer from osteoarthritis because of the breed, age, or repeated hunting seasons. As the result, his mobility is limited. In order to prevent it, you need to feed him a diet rich in Omega-3 fatty acids. In addition, it’s a good idea to try using supplements.

Teaching dog to respond your call

Two commands are associated with summoning your dog to your side: her name and “Come.” First you want to make your dog’s association with her name a positive one. Then you can get her to come at your bidding.


What do you do when people whom you respect call your name? Do you ignore them? Or do you look up, expectant and excited that an adventure may follow? You want your dog to be interested and excited, too. To create positive associations with your dog’s name, remember the following:

  1. Use your dog’s name for happy interaction. If you need to medicate, isolate, or otherwise commiserate about something (a chewed shoe perhaps), go and get your dog; don’t call her by name.
  2. When you call your dog, have something fun in store. Shake a cup full of treats, bounce or toss a toy, or pretend you’ve found something in the grass. Be enthusiastic when your dog responds to you.
  3. Don’t overuse her name. No one likes to check in constantly. Give your dog some freedom to explore.


You should first teach the “Come” command as a sensation of closeness. Here’s how the process works:
1. Throughout the day, reward your dog anytime she chooses to reconnect with you.
Say “Come” as you reach out to pet or reward her, encouraging your dog to look up by sweeping your hands to your eyes. If you’re using a clicker, highlight this moment of togetherness: Click and treat.
2. After the dog understands that the word means closeness, command “Come” to get your dog to come to you. Gradually extend the distance and increase the distractions, working in a safe environment.

The Recall Training for Hunting Dog

Most young puppies will come to you readily when called or when you clap your hands at least for a while. But later on other things, especially things that move, attract their interest and you are ignored. This is simply because the recall has not yet been instilled and is consequently not understood by the pup.

This can be irritating and at times has to be countered by adopting somewhat unorthodox methods. Ingenuity is the name of the game and what will work for one pup may not for the next, so you have to give the matter some thought in order to come up with a solution. In the meantime one should bear in mind two golden rules where the teaching of the recall is concerned:
(1) Do not call your dog unless you can be sure you can make him comply.
(2) Do not chase your dog, thereby allowing him to take the lead and thus the initiative; always try to have him come to you.

The following maneuvers usually do the trick with most pups.

First, call his name in conjunction with the recall command “Here” and, if this fails, run away from him the moment you have his attention. From the very beginning, use the whistle with the recall command, giving several pips. This will eventually be the signal in the field to call him to you from a distance, so the sooner he is trained to it the better. The whistle is a good attention-getter and is often reacted to far better than the voice. As you are by now moving away from him, the chances are good that he will follow you, as anything that is moving (yourself included) is of far more interest to a pup than whatever is standing still.


If he continues to pay less attention to you than he should, call his name and give the whistle signal, then quickly conceal yourself. Sooner or later he will notice you are missing and will probably become concerned and start looking for you. As soon as he does, call and whistle again and give him lots of praise when he gets to you. However, I must also point out that this approach is normally effective only when used in an area that he is unfamiliar with. This circumstance in itself will cause most pups to pay more attention to your whereabouts.

You may have noticed that the recall command “Here” sounds virtually the same as the command “Heel.” This is appropriate as one complements the other. The only way any dog can walk alongside you at heel is to come in to you from wherever he is. You are therefore using the two commands for virtually the same purpose.

There are times when problems with the recall can be counteracted by giving the miscreant a cookie or some of his favorite dog meal. Food temptation is hard to resist for most pups, who will willingly respond if such a treat is in the offing. However, I advise that bribery be used only as a last resort. Any well-balanced puppy or adult dog, if started right, should return to you eagerly when called without the incentive of food. Praise is all that should be necessary.

If disobedience persists, though, there is usually no alternative but to resort to the use of a check line and choke chain. A line about fifteen to twenty feet long will do. Put on the choke chain
attached to the line and let him trail it along as he runs ahead of you in the field. The presence of the line should not trouble him as he has probably become accustomed to the feel of the leash trailing. As he is running around, shout “Here” and give the whistle signal too. if he fails to comply, slam your foot down on the line and bowl him head over heels. At this point, grab hold of the line, repeat the command and the whistle signal, and at the very same moment give a sharp, hard tug on the line. He should now come running in towards you. As he does, give several more pips on the whistle, and lots of praise when he gets to you.


When he starts to run towards you remember not to pull on the line again. Don’t drag him towards you under any circumstances; he must learn to run back freely. Repeat this another two or three times, then leave it for the day. More often would be counterproductive as he would then be reluctant to get very far away from you.

Over the next two or three weeks have a few more sessions, going about it in exactly the same way. Then, when it seems to be taking effect, remove the line and substitute for it the short leash. He’ll be able to tell the difference all right as there will be less drag from the leash, but he’ll still think you possess that mysterious ability to control him from a distance. After a further two or three sessions, provided all has gone well, try removing the leash altogether while leaving the choke chain on. This will still provide a “link” (in more than one sense) between you and him. The chances are good that by this time you will find you have won and that shortly you will not need to put the choke chain on at all. Try to discontinue the use of the line as soon as possible, once he will come to you without hesitation.

It is clear that, if a puppy is taught the recall correctly early in life, returning to you becomes second nature. So if problems persist, there is something you aren’t doing right. You must sit down and try to analyze where you are going wrong.